Safety Warning
DIY auto repair can cause serious injury, fire, or vehicle damage. These guides are for informational purposes only. Always follow OEM torque specs, wear PPE, and consult a certified mechanic if you are unsure. You are solely responsible for your safety.
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HOMESERVICE MANUALSVOLKSWAGEN1996JETTA (1H2) L4-2.0L (ABA)REPAIR AND DIAGNOSISBODY AND FRAMEFRAMECROSS-MEMBERFRONT CROSS-MEMBERSERVICE AND REPAIRREPLACEMENT
1996 Volkswagen Jetta (1H2) L4-2.0L (ABA)
Replacement
1996 Volkswagen Jetta (1H2) L4-2.0L (ABA)SECTION Replacement
CAUTION:
- If a vehicle has to be moved after removing the axle shaft, install an outer constant velocity joint and tighten to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.) to prevent damage to wheel bearing.
- DO NOT attempt to straighten or weld suspension strut, wheel bearing housing, control arm or any other wheel locating or load-bearing components of the front suspension.
- Always replace self-locking nuts.
- Directly below the component legend are the Fig. numbers. Please refer to these for information regarding removal and installation instructions.
NOTE:
- Always replace corroded bolts/nuts.
- For this procedure, use the tools shown in the following illustrations or their equivalents.

1 Ball Joint Bolt
- Tighten to: 35 Nm (26 ft. lbs.)
2 Ball Joint
- Checking. Testing and Inspection
- Check rubber boot for damage and replace joint if necessary
- Mark installation position before removing
- If replacing, install part centered in elongated hole and check toe setting
- Elongated holes are NOT intended for camber adjustment
3 Mounting Plate
4 Control Arm
5 Rear Bushing For Control Arm
- Installation position, refer to Fig. 3
- Pressing out/in, refer to Fig. 4
- Modified version available as a replacement. Application and ID
6 Link Rod Bearing
- Conical Side Faces Control Arm
7 Link Rod
8 Rubber Mounting
- Coat with lubricant (e.g. soft soap) before pressing in
9 Crossmember Mounting Bolt
- Tighten to: 65 Nm (48 ft. lbs.)
10 Stabilizer Bar Mounting
11 Stabilizer Bar
12 Vibration Damper Mounting Nut
- Tighten to: 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.)
13 Clamp
14 Vibration Damper
15 Bolt
- Tighten to: 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.)
16 Subframe
- Removing/installing, refer to Fig. 5
- After installing, align front wheels if steering gear/subframe attachment has been loosened
- Aligning engine and transmission assembly, refer to Engine.
17 Bolt
- 12 x 1.5 x 82 mm
- Tighten to: 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.) plus additional 1/4 turn (90°)
18 Bolt
- 12 x 1.5 x 65 mm
- Tighten to: 70 Nm (52 ft. lbs.) plus additional 1/4 turn (90°)
19 Bolt
- 12 x 1.5 x 78 mm
- Tighten to: 70 Nm (52 ft. lbs.) plus additional 1/4 turn (90°)
20 Front Bushing For Control Arm
- Pressing out, refer to Fig. 1
- Pressing in, refer to Fig. 2
21 Washer
- Collar faces away from control arm
22 Stabilizer Bar Link Rod Nut
- Tighten to: 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.)
23 Cap Nut
- Repairing, refer to Repair.

Fig. 1 - Front Bushing For Control Arm, Pressing Out

Fig. 2 - Front Bushing For Control Arm, Pressing In
- Before pressing in, coat with an acid-free lubricant (e.g. soft soap).

Fig. 3 - Rear Bushing For Control Arm, Installation Position
- One of two arrows on bushing must point toward recess in control arm
- Kidney-shaped opening -A- in bushing must point toward center of vehicle

Fig. 4 - Rear Bushing For Control Arm, Pressing Out/In

Fig. 5 - Engine/Transmission Assembly, Supporting While Removing Subframe
- If a vehicle has to be moved after removing the axle shaft, install an outer constant velocity joint and tighten to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.) to prevent damage to wheel bearing.
- DO NOT attempt to straighten or weld suspension strut, wheel bearing housing, control arm or any other wheel locating or load-bearing components of the front suspension.
- Always replace self-locking nuts.
- Directly below the component legend are the Fig. numbers. Please refer to these for information regarding removal and installation instructions.
NOTE:
- Always replace corroded bolts/nuts.
- For this procedure, use the tools shown in the following illustrations or their equivalents.
1 Ball Joint Bolt
- Tighten to: 35 Nm (26 ft. lbs.)
2 Ball Joint
- Checking. Testing and Inspection
- Check rubber boot for damage and replace joint if necessary
- Mark installation position before removing
- If replacing, install part centered in elongated hole and check toe setting
- Elongated holes are NOT intended for camber adjustment
3 Mounting Plate
4 Control Arm
5 Rear Bushing For Control Arm
- Installation position, refer to Fig. 3
- Pressing out/in, refer to Fig. 4
- Modified version available as a replacement. Application and ID
6 Link Rod Bearing
- Conical Side Faces Control Arm
7 Link Rod
8 Rubber Mounting
- Coat with lubricant (e.g. soft soap) before pressing in
9 Crossmember Mounting Bolt
- Tighten to: 65 Nm (48 ft. lbs.)
10 Stabilizer Bar Mounting
11 Stabilizer Bar
12 Vibration Damper Mounting Nut
- Tighten to: 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.)
13 Clamp
14 Vibration Damper
15 Bolt
- Tighten to: 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.)
16 Subframe
- Removing/installing, refer to Fig. 5
- After installing, align front wheels if steering gear/subframe attachment has been loosened
- Aligning engine and transmission assembly, refer to Engine.
17 Bolt
- 12 x 1.5 x 82 mm
- Tighten to: 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.) plus additional 1/4 turn (90°)
18 Bolt
- 12 x 1.5 x 65 mm
- Tighten to: 70 Nm (52 ft. lbs.) plus additional 1/4 turn (90°)
19 Bolt
- 12 x 1.5 x 78 mm
- Tighten to: 70 Nm (52 ft. lbs.) plus additional 1/4 turn (90°)
20 Front Bushing For Control Arm
- Pressing out, refer to Fig. 1
- Pressing in, refer to Fig. 2
21 Washer
- Collar faces away from control arm
22 Stabilizer Bar Link Rod Nut
- Tighten to: 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.)
23 Cap Nut
- Repairing, refer to Repair.
Fig. 1 - Front Bushing For Control Arm, Pressing Out
Fig. 2 - Front Bushing For Control Arm, Pressing In
- Before pressing in, coat with an acid-free lubricant (e.g. soft soap).
Fig. 3 - Rear Bushing For Control Arm, Installation Position
- One of two arrows on bushing must point toward recess in control arm
- Kidney-shaped opening -A- in bushing must point toward center of vehicle
Fig. 4 - Rear Bushing For Control Arm, Pressing Out/In
Fig. 5 - Engine/Transmission Assembly, Supporting While Removing Subframe
RENDER: 1.0x
NO RELATED
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When to See a Mechanic
Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:
- • You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.
- • Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.
- • The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.
- • You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.
- • You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.