Safety Warning
DIY auto repair can cause serious injury, fire, or vehicle damage. These guides are for informational purposes only. Always follow OEM torque specs, wear PPE, and consult a certified mechanic if you are unsure. You are solely responsible for your safety.
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HOMESERVICE MANUALSSATURN1998SL2 L4-1.9L DOHC VIN 7REPAIR AND DIAGNOSISMAINTENANCEALIGNMENTSERVICE AND REPAIRREAR WHEEL ALIGNMENT
1998 Saturn SL2 L4-1.9L DOHC VIN 7
Rear Wheel Alignment
1998 Saturn SL2 L4-1.9L DOHC VIN 7SECTION Rear Wheel Alignment
GENERAL INFORMATION
Rear wheel alignment involves setting two alignment angles (camber and toe). Rear wheel caster is not adjustable.
IMPORTANT: Rear wheel alignment angles must be set correctly before front wheel alignment is attempted.
REAR WHEEL CAMBER
1. Loosen two strut to knuckle fasteners and pull or push on knuckle in the direction of desired camber change. This will allow up to 1.5° of camber adjustment.
NOTICE: If more than 1.5° of camber adjustment is required, check for bent suspension components or body structure.
2. If more than 1.5° of camber adjustment is required and no bent components are observed:
CAUTION: MAKE SURE VEHICLE IS PROPERLY SUPPORTED AND SQUARELY POSITIONED ON HOIST. TO HELP AVOID PERSONAL INJURY, PROVIDE ADDITIONAL SUPPORT TO THE OPPOSITE END OF THE VEHICLE THAT COMPONENTS WILL BE REMOVED FROM.
A. Raise vehicle on hoist.
B. Remove road wheel corresponding to wheel being aligned.
C. Remove two strut-to-knuckle fasteners and separate knuckle from strut bracket
D. The strut mounting bracket consists of two layers of metal, an inner layer and an outer layer. The inner layer has a round 14.4 - 14.8 mm (0.57 - 0.58 inch) hole through it at the mounting locations, while the outer layer has a 18.4 - 18.8 mm (0.72 - 0.74 inch) slot through it.
Using a round file or grinder, remove material from the inner layer of the strut bracket lower hole. The round hole may be increased to the size and shape of the slot in the outer layer. Do this on both sides of the strut bracket.
To increase negative camber, remove material from the outside of the lower strut hole.
To decrease negative camber, remove material from the inside of the lower strut hole.
IMPORTANT: If strut was filed or ground, paint exposed metal with primer.
E. Position knuckle back into strut with fasteners.
3. Tighten strut-to-knuckle fasteners.
Torque: 170 Nm (126 ft. lbs.)
NOTICE: Before installing wheels, remove rust or corrosion from wheel mounting surfaces and brake rotors/drums. Failure to do so can cause wheel nuts to loosen in service.
4. Position wheel onto hub.
5. Install wheel nuts and tighten in a crisscross pattern. Repeat tightening pattern to make sure torque is correct.
Torque: 140 Nm (103 ft. lbs.)
6. Lower vehicle from hoist.
7. Check camber angle and adjust if necessary.
REAR WHEEL TOE
1. Loosen the rearmost inboard lateral link to crossmember fastener on one of the rear wheels.
2. With Rear Toe Adjusting Tool SA9158S (or equivalent), move lateral link in the direction of necessary toe correction (right side shown, left side opposite).
3. Tighten the lateral link-to-crossmember fastener.
Torque: 120 Nm (89 ft. lbs.)
4. Check toe and adjust if necessary.
5. Repeat procedure for other rear wheel.
Rear wheel alignment involves setting two alignment angles (camber and toe). Rear wheel caster is not adjustable.
IMPORTANT: Rear wheel alignment angles must be set correctly before front wheel alignment is attempted.
REAR WHEEL CAMBER
1. Loosen two strut to knuckle fasteners and pull or push on knuckle in the direction of desired camber change. This will allow up to 1.5° of camber adjustment.
NOTICE: If more than 1.5° of camber adjustment is required, check for bent suspension components or body structure.
2. If more than 1.5° of camber adjustment is required and no bent components are observed:
CAUTION: MAKE SURE VEHICLE IS PROPERLY SUPPORTED AND SQUARELY POSITIONED ON HOIST. TO HELP AVOID PERSONAL INJURY, PROVIDE ADDITIONAL SUPPORT TO THE OPPOSITE END OF THE VEHICLE THAT COMPONENTS WILL BE REMOVED FROM.
A. Raise vehicle on hoist.
B. Remove road wheel corresponding to wheel being aligned.
C. Remove two strut-to-knuckle fasteners and separate knuckle from strut bracket
D. The strut mounting bracket consists of two layers of metal, an inner layer and an outer layer. The inner layer has a round 14.4 - 14.8 mm (0.57 - 0.58 inch) hole through it at the mounting locations, while the outer layer has a 18.4 - 18.8 mm (0.72 - 0.74 inch) slot through it.
Using a round file or grinder, remove material from the inner layer of the strut bracket lower hole. The round hole may be increased to the size and shape of the slot in the outer layer. Do this on both sides of the strut bracket.
To increase negative camber, remove material from the outside of the lower strut hole.
To decrease negative camber, remove material from the inside of the lower strut hole.
IMPORTANT: If strut was filed or ground, paint exposed metal with primer.
E. Position knuckle back into strut with fasteners.
3. Tighten strut-to-knuckle fasteners.
Torque: 170 Nm (126 ft. lbs.)
NOTICE: Before installing wheels, remove rust or corrosion from wheel mounting surfaces and brake rotors/drums. Failure to do so can cause wheel nuts to loosen in service.
4. Position wheel onto hub.
5. Install wheel nuts and tighten in a crisscross pattern. Repeat tightening pattern to make sure torque is correct.
Torque: 140 Nm (103 ft. lbs.)
6. Lower vehicle from hoist.
7. Check camber angle and adjust if necessary.
REAR WHEEL TOE
1. Loosen the rearmost inboard lateral link to crossmember fastener on one of the rear wheels.
2. With Rear Toe Adjusting Tool SA9158S (or equivalent), move lateral link in the direction of necessary toe correction (right side shown, left side opposite).
3. Tighten the lateral link-to-crossmember fastener.
Torque: 120 Nm (89 ft. lbs.)
4. Check toe and adjust if necessary.
5. Repeat procedure for other rear wheel.
RENDER: 1.0x
NO RELATED
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When to See a Mechanic
Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:
- • You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.
- • Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.
- • The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.
- • You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.
- • You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.