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HOMESERVICE MANUALSHONDA2011CR-V EX, 2.4 RE4, BZHAREPAIR AND DIAGNOSIS (SINGLE PAGE)BODY & FRAMEMIRRORSPOWER MIRRORSFUNCTION TEST
2011 Honda CR-V EX, 2.4 RE4, BZHA

Function Test

2011 Honda CR-V EX, 2.4 RE4, BZHASECTION Function Test
  1. Remove the power mirror switch (see POWER MIRROR SWITCH TEST/REPLACEMENT ).
  2. Disconnect the 13P connector (A) from the power mirror switch (B).
    Fig 1: Locating 13P Connector And Power Mirror Switch
    G06612392Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
  3. Choose the appropriate test based on the symptom:
    • Both mirrors don't work, go to step 4.
    • Left mirror doesn't work, go to step  6.
    • Right mirror doesn't work, go to step  7.
    • Mirror defoggers don't work, go to step  8.

    Both mirrors 

  4. Measure the voltage between terminal No. 2 and body ground with the ignition switch in ON (II).

    There should be battery voltage.

    • If there is no battery voltage, check for:
      • Blown No. 36 (10 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
      • An open or high resistance in the BRN wire.
    • If there is battery voltage, go to step 5.
  5. Measure the voltage between terminal No. 6 and body ground while you operated the mirrors.

    There should be battery voltage.

    • If there is no battery voltage, check for:
      • An open or high resistance in the BLK wire.
      • Poor ground (G501) or an open in the ground wire.
    • If the voltage is as specified, check both mirrors individually.

    Left mirror 

  6. Connect terminals No. 2 and No. 10, and terminals No. 5 (or No. 12) and No. 6 with jumper wires.

    The left mirror should tilt down (or swing left) with the ignition switch in ON (II).

    • If the left mirror does not tilt down (or does not swing left), check for an open in the PUR (or PNK) wire between the left mirror and the 13P connector. If the wire is OK, check the left mirror actuator.
    • If the mirror neither tilts down nor swings left, repair the GRN wire.
    • If the mirror works properly, check the power mirror switch.

    Right mirror 

  7. Connect terminals No. 2 and No. 11, and terminals No. 5 (or No. 13) and No. 6 with jumper wires. The right mirror should tilt down (or swing left) with the ignition switch in ON (II).
    • If the mirror does not tilt down (or does not swing left), check for an open in the PUR (or BLU) wire between the right mirror and the 13P connector. If the wire is OK, check the right mirror actuator.
    • If the mirror neither tilts down nor swings left, repair the WHT wire.
    • If the mirror works properly, check the power mirror switch.

    Defogger 

  8. Connect the power mirror defogger relay terminals No. 1 and No. 2 with a jumper wire, and measure the voltage between mirror connectors terminal No. 1 and body ground. There should be battery voltage and both mirrors should warm up with the ignition switch in ON (II).
    • If there is no voltage or neither warms up, check for:
      • An open or high resistance in the ORN wire.
      • Blown No. 36 (10 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
    • If only one fails to warm up, check:
      • Its defogger.
      • Poor ground (G501, G503) or an open in the ground wire.
    • If both warm up, check the defogger switch or the power mirror defogger relay.
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When to See a Mechanic

Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:

  • • You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.
  • • Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.
  • • The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.
  • • You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.
  • • You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.