Gauge Control Module Input Test

2011 Honda CR-V EX, 2.4 RE3, MZJASECTION Gauge Control Module Input Test
NOTE: Before testing, do the gauge control module self-diagnosis function, and make sure the B-CAN communication line is OK.
  1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
  2. Remove the gauge control module, and disconnect the 36P connector from it (see GAUGE CONTROL MODULE REPLACEMENT ).
    Fig 1: Identifying Gauge Control Module 36P Connector Terminals
    G06612356Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
  3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
    • If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
    • If the terminals are OK, go to step 4.
  4. With the connector still disconnected, do these input tests at the following connector.
    • If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
    • If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5.
    CONNECTOR TEST CONDITION REFERENCE CHART

    Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if desired result is not obtained
    1 RED Combination light switch ON Attach to ground: The illumination of the dash lights, audio unit, and moonroof switch light should come on full.
    • Faulty LEDs and bulbs
    • An open or high resistance in the wire
    2 GRN Combination light switch ON Attach to ground: The illumination of the seat heater switch lights and HVAC control unit should come on full bright.
    • Faulty LEDs and bulbs
    • An open or high resistance in the wire
    9 ORN Ignition switch ON (II), turn signal switch in LEFT Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage when the lights are flashing.
    • Faulty MICU
    • Faulty combination light switch
    • An open or high resistance in the wire
    10 BRN Ignition switch ON (II), turn signal switch in RIGHT Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage when the lights are flashing.
    • Faulty MICU
    • Faulty combination light switch
    • An open or high resistance in the wire
  5. Reconnect the connector to the gauge control module, turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and do the input tests at the following connector.
    • If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
    • If the input test proves OK, the gauge control module must be faulty; replace it.
    CONNECTOR TEST CONDITION REFERENCE CHART

    Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if desired result is not obtained
    15 BLK In all ignition switch positions Measure the voltage to ground: There should be less than 0.2 V.
    • Poor ground (G501) or an open in the ground wire
    • An open or high resistance in the wire
    19 BLK In all ignition switch positions Measure the voltage to ground: There should be less than 0.2 V.
    • Poor ground (G501) or an open in the ground wire
    • An open or high resistance in the wire
    36 YEL Ignition switch ON (ID Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage.
    • Blown No. 10 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
    • An open or high resistance in the wire
    18 ORN Under all conditions Measure the voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage.
    • Blown No. 23 (10 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box
    • An open or high resistance in the wire
    11 YEL Ignition switch ON (II), washer fluid is empty in the washer reservoir Measure the voltage to ground: There should be less than 0.2 V.
    • Poor ground (G201) or an open in the ground wire
    • Faulty washer fluid level switch
    • An open or high resistance in the wire
    Ignition switch ON (II), washer fluid is half or more in the washer reservoir Measure the voltage to ground: There should be at least 5 V.
    • Faulty washer fluid level switch
    • A short to ground in the wire
    30 ORN Ignition switch ON (II), brake fluid is to the full level in the reservoir Measure the voltage to ground: There should be at least 5 V.
    • Faulty brake fluid level switch
    • A short to ground in the wire
    Ignition switch ON (II), brake fluid is to the lower level in the reservoir Measure the voltage to ground: There should be less than 0.2 V.
    • Poor ground (G401) or an open in the ground wire
    • Faulty brake fluid level switch
    • An open or high resistance in the wire
    29 PUR Ignition switch ON (II), parking brake pedal depressed Measure the voltage to ground: There should be less than 0.2 V.
    • Faulty parking brake switch
    • An open or high resistance in the wire
    Ignition switch ON (II), parking brake pedal released Measure the voltage to ground: There should be at least 5 V.
    • Faulty parking brake switch
    • A short to ground in the wire
RENDER: 1.0x

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When to See a Mechanic

Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:

  • You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.
  • Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.
  • The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.
  • You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.
  • You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.