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HOMESERVICE MANUALSHONDA2002CIVIC SIREPAIR AND DIAGNOSISEXTERNAL PAGESDIFFERENT CARSECTION 188 (POWER TAILGATE)CONTROL UNIT INPUT TEST

2002 Honda Civic Si

Control Unit Input Test

2002 Honda Civic SiSECTION Control Unit Input Test

WARNING: This page is about a different car, the 2006 Honda Odyssey and 2005 Honda Odyssey. However, it is still accessible from the selected car via links, so may be relevant.

NOTE: Before troubleshooting the power tailgate system, troubleshoot the multiplex integrated control system using B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode A (see TROUBLESHOOTING - B-CAN SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS TEST MODE A ).

Turn the ignition switch OFF.
Remove the left rear pillar trim (see TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - PILLAR AREAS ).
Disconnect the 20P, 14P, and 5P connectors (A) from the power tailgate control unit (B).

Fig 1: Disconnecting 20P, 14P And 5P Connectors From Power Tailgate Control Unit
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
Inspect all the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
- If the terminals look OK, go to step 5.

With the connectors still disconnected, make the input tests shown in CONNECTOR INPUT TEST CHART , at the connectors.

If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
If the input tests prove OK, Go to step 6.

CONNECTOR INPUT TEST CHART

Cavity	Wire	Test condition	Test: Desired result	Possible cause if result is not obtained
B3	BRN/WHT	Under all conditions	Connect B10 terminal to B3 terminal with a jumper wire: The beeper should sound.	Blown No. 7 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box Faulty beeper An open in the wire

Reconnect all connectors to the power tailgate control unit, and do the input test shown in CONTROL UNIT INPUT TEST CHART , at the appropriate connector.

If the test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
If the input test proves OK, replace the power tailgate control unit.

CONTROL UNIT INPUT TEST CHART

Cavity	Wire	Test condition	Test: Desired result	Possible cause if result is not obtained
A2	WHT/BLU	Under all conditions	Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage.	Blown No. 4 (40 A) fuse in the auxiliary under-hood fuse box An open in the wire
B12	WHT	Under all conditions	Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage.	Blown No. 17 (20 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box Blown No. 20 (40 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box An open in the wire
B10	WHT/RED	Under all conditions	Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage.	Blown No. 7 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box Blown No. 15 (40 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box An open in the wire
C14	YEL	Ignition switch ON (II)	Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage.	Blown No. 21 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box An open in the wire
A1	BRN	Under all conditions	Check for voltage to ground: There should be less than 1 V.	Poor ground (G702) An open in the wire
A4	BLK	Under all conditions	Check for voltage to ground: There should be less than 1 V.	Poor ground (G702) An open in the wire
B19	BLK	Under all conditions	Check for voltage to ground: There should be less than 1 V.	Poor ground (G702) An open in the wire
B8	BLU/BLK	Shift lever in P position	Check for voltage to ground: There should be less than 1 V.	Faulty transmission range switch Poor ground (G101, G102) An open in the wire

RENDER: 1.0x

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When to See a Mechanic

Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:

• You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.
• Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.
• The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.
• You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.
• You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.