Safety Warning
DIY auto repair can cause serious injury, fire, or vehicle damage. These guides are for informational purposes only. Always follow OEM torque specs, wear PPE, and consult a certified mechanic if you are unsure. You are solely responsible for your safety.
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HOMESERVICE MANUALSFORD2012EDGE AWD V6-3.7LREPAIR AND DIAGNOSISSTEERING AND SUSPENSIONSUSPENSIONSUBFRAMEREAR SUBFRAMESERVICE AND REPAIR
2012 Ford Edge AWD V6-3.7L
Rear Subframe: Service and Repair
2012 Ford Edge AWD V6-3.7LSECTION Service and Repair
Subframe - Rear
NOTICE: Suspension and subframe fasteners are critical parts because they affect performance of vital parts and systems and their failure may result in major service expense. A new part with the same part number must be installed if installation becomes necessary. Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to make sure of correct retention of these parts.
1. Remove the rear wheels.
2. If equipped, remove the bolts from the driveshaft-to-rear drive unit flange.
- To install, tighten to 70 Nm (52 lb-ft).
3. With a wax pencil, mark the relationship of the rear subframe to the underbody at the mounting locations.
4. Remove the muffler and tailpipe assembly.
5. Disconnect the LH and RH wheel speed sensor connectors.
6. NOTE: All-Wheel Drive (AWD) shown, Front Wheel Drive (FWD) similar.
Remove the connector from the front of the subframe and position aside.
7. NOTICE: Do not allow the brake caliper and anchor plate assembly to hang from the brake hose or damage to the hose may occur.
Remove the 4 bolts (2 each side) from the rear hub spindle-to-brake caliper.
- To install, tighten to 70 Nm (52 lb-ft).
8. Remove the 2 bolts (1 each side) from the brake hose bracket.
9. Position the brake calipers aside using mechanic's wire. It is not necessary to disconnect the hydraulic brake lines.
10. Remove the 2 nuts (1 each side) from the parking brake cable bracket and upper stabilizer shaft.
- Discard the nuts.
- To install, tighten to 35 Nm (26 lb-ft).
11. Remove the 4 bolts (2 each side) from the parking brake cable-to-backing plate.
- To install, tighten to 23 Nm (17 lb-ft).
12. Remove the rear shock-to-trailing link lower nuts and flag bolts.
- Discard the nuts and flag bolts.
- To install, tighten to 80 Nm (59 lb-ft).
13. NOTICE:
- The rear subframe must be secured to the lifting table. The rear subframe may become unstable and fall from the lifting table.
- Position a jackstand under the front of the vehicle to keep the vehicle from becoming unstable on the hoist.
Position the lifting table under the rear subframe.
14. Remove the 4 front (2 each side) bushing brace-to-body bolts.
- Discard the bolts.
- To install, tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
15. Remove the 2 front (1 each side) mounting bolts from the rear subframe.
- Discard the bolts.
- To install, tighten to 150 Nm (111 lb-ft).
16. NOTE: The bolts are 2 different sizes, note the location of the bolts to make sure of correct installation.
Remove the 10 bolts (5 each side) from the trailing links-to-vehicle body.
- Discard the bolts.
- To install, tighten to 47 Nm (35 lb-ft).
17. NOTE: The rear springs are under pressure. The lifting table must be lowered slowly to relieve the spring pressure.
Remove the 2 rear mounting bolts.
- Discard the bolts.
- To install, tighten to 150 Nm (111 lb-ft).
18. Remove the rear subframe.
19. Transfer the components as necessary.
20. To install, reverse the removal procedure.
RENDER: 1.0x
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When to See a Mechanic
Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:
- • You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.
- • Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.
- • The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.
- • You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.
- • You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.