Safety Warning
DIY auto repair can cause serious injury, fire, or vehicle damage. These guides are for informational purposes only. Always follow OEM torque specs, wear PPE, and consult a certified mechanic if you are unsure. You are solely responsible for your safety.
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HOMESERVICE MANUALSFORD2012EDGE AWD V6-3.7LREPAIR AND DIAGNOSISBRAKES AND TRACTION CONTROLBRAKE PEDAL ASSYSERVICE AND REPAIR
2012 Ford Edge AWD V6-3.7L
Brake Pedal Assy: Service and Repair
2012 Ford Edge AWD V6-3.7LSECTION Service and Repair
Brake Pedal and Bracket
Removal and Installation
NOTICE: Do not service the brake pedal without first removing the stoplamp switch. Remove this switch with the brake pedal in the at-rest position. The switch plunger must be compressed for the switch to rotate in the bracket. Attempting to remove the switch when the plunger is extended (during pedal apply) results in damage to the switch.
NOTICE: The holes on the brake pedal bracket for the bottom booster studs are slotted, the holes for the top studs are not. If the brake booster is not pulled forward far enough for the bracket to clear the studs, damage to the bracket can occur.
NOTICE: Do not press, pull or otherwise move the brake pedal while installing the stoplamp switch. Install this switch with the booster push rod attached to the brake pedal and with the brake pedal in the at-rest position. Installing this switch with the brake pedal in any other position results in incorrect adjustment and damages the switch.
NOTICE: The brake booster check valve must be disconnected from the brake booster prior to removing the master cylinder or the master cylinder seal may be drawn into the brake booster.
1. Remove the battery tray.
2. Disconnect the brake booster check valve from the brake booster.
3. Remove the steering column opening cover.
4. Remove the stoplamp switch.
5. NOTE: The booster push rod clevis locking pin is a one-time use only part. Any time the booster push rod clevis locking pin is removed, a new booster push rod clevis locking pin must be installed.
NOTE: An 11 mm, 12-point socket or wrench can be used to compress the 2 locking tabs on the clevis pin.
Remove and discard the booster push rod locking pin.
6. Remove the 4 brake booster nuts.
- To install, tighten to 23 Nm (17 lb-ft).
7. NOTE: Make sure that the master cylinder-to-booster seal is removed with the master cylinder.
Remove and discard the 2 brake master cylinder nuts and position aside the brake master cylinder.
- To install, tighten the new nuts to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
8. Position the brake booster forward enough to allow the brake booster studs to clear the brake pedal assembly.
9. Remove the upper 2 brake pedal bracket bolts from the brake pedal bracket assembly.
- To install, tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
10. Disconnect the vehicle electrical harness locators and remove the brake pedal bracket assembly from the vehicle.
11. To install, reverse the removal procedure.
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When to See a Mechanic
Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:
- • You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.
- • Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.
- • The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.
- • You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.
- • You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.