Safety Warning
DIY auto repair can cause serious injury, fire, or vehicle damage. These guides are for informational purposes only. Always follow OEM torque specs, wear PPE, and consult a certified mechanic if you are unsure. You are solely responsible for your safety.
SYS.OK|MANUAL.DB● LIVE
HOMESERVICE MANUALSCHEVROLET1992LUMINA APV V6-3800 3.8LREPAIR AND DIAGNOSISPOWERTRAIN MANAGEMENTRELAYS AND MODULES - POWERTRAIN MANAGEMENTRELAYS AND MODULES - IGNITION SYSTEMIGNITION CONTROL MODULEDIAGRAMSDIAGNOSTIC AIDSCONNECTOR, SPLICING AND TERMINAL REPAIR
1992 Chevrolet Lumina APV V6-3800 3.8L
Connector, Splicing and Terminal Repair
1992 Chevrolet Lumina APV V6-3800 3.8LSECTION Connector, Splicing and Terminal Repair
NOTE: The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. Use the Pick(s) or Tools that apply to your terminal.
Use Terminal repair kit J 38125 or equivalent.
Follow the steps below to repair Pull-To-Seat connectors (Figure 20). The steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may be different, but the repair steps are similar. Some connectors DO NOT require all the steps shown. Skip the steps that DO NOT apply.
1. Separate connector halves. Using the proper pick or removal tool, remove terminal (see Figures 21 & 22).
a. Pull lead gently.
b. Insert pick from front of connector into canal.
c. Pry tab up with tool.
d. Push lead to remove.
2. If terminal is to be re-used, re-form locking tang.
3. Make repair.
a. Pull terminal wire out of connector body.
b. Cut wire as close to terminal as possible.
c. Strip 5 mm (3/16") of insulation from the wire (see Figure 23).
d. Crimp new terminal to wire.
e. Solder with rosin core solder.
f. Carefully pull on wire to draw terminal into connector body until it locks.
Use Terminal repair kit J 38125 or equivalent.
Figure 20 - Typical Pull-To-Seat Connector:
Follow the steps below to repair Pull-To-Seat connectors (Figure 20). The steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may be different, but the repair steps are similar. Some connectors DO NOT require all the steps shown. Skip the steps that DO NOT apply.
1. Separate connector halves. Using the proper pick or removal tool, remove terminal (see Figures 21 & 22).
a. Pull lead gently.
b. Insert pick from front of connector into canal.
c. Pry tab up with tool.
d. Push lead to remove.
Figure 21:
Figure 22:
2. If terminal is to be re-used, re-form locking tang.
3. Make repair.
a. Pull terminal wire out of connector body.
b. Cut wire as close to terminal as possible.
c. Strip 5 mm (3/16") of insulation from the wire (see Figure 23).
d. Crimp new terminal to wire.
e. Solder with rosin core solder.
f. Carefully pull on wire to draw terminal into connector body until it locks.
RENDER: 1.0x
NO RELATED
Recommended Tools & Savings
Use the Manual With the Right Hardware
Pair factory procedures with proven DIY tools so the instructions are easier to execute.
Affiliate disclosure: We may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.
When to See a Mechanic
Stop DIY work and contact a certified mechanic immediately if any of the following apply:
- • You smell fuel, burning insulation, or see smoke.
- • Brakes feel soft, pull hard to one side, or make grinding noises.
- • The engine overheats, stalls repeatedly, or misfires under load.
- • You are missing required tools, torque specs, or safe lifting equipment.
- • You are not confident in the next step or safety outcome.