Used car inspection checklist β what to look at before buying?
Steven Plymire
11d ago
106 6
Looking at a used car this weekend from a private seller. I'm not a mechanic but I know the basics. What should I be checking to avoid buying someone else's problem? Is there a good checklist?
3 Replies
Here's my used car inspection checklist from 15 years of buying/selling:
**Before you go:**
- Run a Carfax/AutoCheck ($40 β ask seller for VIN upfront)
- Check recall status at NHTSA.gov
- Research common problems for that specific year/make/model
**Visual inspection (engine off):**
- Oil dipstick: dark is OK, milky = head gasket, metal flakes = engine wear
- Coolant: should be clean green/orange/pink, not brown or oily
- Transmission fluid: should be red/pink, not brown/burnt smelling
- Under the car: look for fresh leaks, rust on frame/subframe, evidence of collision repair
- Tires: even wear? All matching brand? Uneven wear = alignment or suspension issues
- Body panels: gaps even? Mismatched paint? Overspray on rubber trim? = accident repair
- All lights working (headlights, turns, brake, reverse)
**Running inspection:**
- Cold start (ask seller NOT to warm it up before you arrive)
- Listen for ticking, knocking, squealing on startup
- Exhaust smoke: blue = oil, white = coolant, black = running rich
- All gauges normal, no warning lights
- AC blows cold, heater blows hot
- All power windows, locks, mirrors work
- Radio, Bluetooth, backup camera functional
**Test drive (minimum 20 minutes):**
- Accelerate hard: any hesitation, jerking, or smoke?
- Highway speed: vibrations, pulling, wind noise?
- Brake from highway speed: pulling, pulsing, grinding?
- Sharp turns both directions: clicking (CV joints), clunking (suspension)
- Go over bumps: rattles, clunks, bouncing?
- Transmission: smooth shifts? All gears engage?
**After the drive:**
- Re-check under the car for new drips
- Open the oil cap: any milky residue or smoke?
- Feel each wheel: any excessively hot? (could be sticking brake)
**Final step:** Pay a trusted mechanic $100-150 for a pre-purchase inspection. Best money you'll ever spend. They'll catch things you won't.
The biggest tell I look for: does the seller let you get a PPI (pre-purchase inspection)? If they resist or say "it was just inspected" β walk away. Honest sellers have nothing to hide.
Also always, ALWAYS do a cold start. A warm engine hides a lot of sins.
One more thing nobody mentions: check the door jamb sticker vs what the seller claims. It has the original paint color code, weight ratings, and manufacture date. If the car was "repainted to original color" β why? Probably accident damage they don't want to disclose.
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