Driver side window goes down but won't go back up — motor or regulator?

Clicking + window goes down but not up = **window regulator** 95% of the time. Here's why: The regulator uses cables on pulleys (or a gear track on some designs). When the cable breaks or the track strips, the motor can still lower the window (gravity helps) but can't pull it back up. The clicking is the motor spinning but the regulator mechanism slipping. If the motor were dead, you'd hear nothing in either direction. **GM trucks from this era are notorious for regulator failures.** The cable-style regulators fatigue and snap. The fix: 1. Remove door panel (about 8 screws + clips) 2. Disconnect window from regulator 3. Prop window up with tape temporarily 4. Unbolt old regulator, bolt in new one 5. Reconnect window and test Part is $40-80. Takes about an hour. The [2010 Silverado repair guides](/repair/2010/Chevrolet/Silverado) should have the door panel removal steps. **Pro tip:** When you take the door panel off, put a strip of tape across the window to hold it up so it doesn't fall into the door.

Just did this on my '11 Sierra (same truck different badge). Regulator was $55 on Amazon. Watch a YouTube video for your specific truck — GM makes it relatively easy. The hardest part is fishing the new regulator cables through the door frame.

For tonight, you can pull the door panel and push the window up by hand, then wedge something to hold it. Don't drive with the window down — rain in the door panel kills speakers and rusts the regulator mounting points.